Split STL into parts that fit your bed

1. Drop your STL, OBJ or 3MF above and pick your printer.
2. Cuts are placed so every part fits with 5 mm to spare. Move them, add more or change their direction if you want the seams somewhere else.
3. Choose dowel pins, plugs or plain cuts, then download all parts as a 3MF or a zip of STLs.

Your files stay on your device; nothing is uploaded.

Dowel pins (the default) put matching holes in both halves and give you separate pins to print. Both halves can lie flat on their cut face, which needs no supports and gives the cleanest seam. Plugs are attached to one half, so there are no loose pins to lose, but that half can't lie on its cut face. None gives flat cuts that you line up by eye.

Pin size is picked automatically: the biggest of 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.5 or 2 mm that leaves at least 1.2 mm of wall around the hole. Thin walls get smaller pins; cut faces too small for any pin get none.

• Start with 0.15 mm clearance per side. If pins don't go in, reprint them with 0.2–0.3 mm; if they're loose, use 0.1 mm.
• Print pins lying on their side: they're much stronger across the seam than pins printed standing up.
• Print each part on its cut face where you can, so the joint is flat and true.
• Put cuts where the model already has an edge or a change of shape, so the seam is hard to see. Superglue (CA) or two-part epoxy holds PLA and PETG well.

Cutting needs a closed solid. Files with holes or flipped faces are repaired automatically first; if that isn't enough (overlapping parts, surfaces with no thickness), fix the model in a 3D editor, then split it.