3D print cost calculator

1. Drop a G-code file for exact numbers (the filament and time your slicer worked out), or an STL, OBJ or 3MF for an estimate. Or just type the weight and time.
2. Enter what you pay: filament per kg and electricity per kWh. They're remembered for next time.
3. Add machine wear, failed prints, extras and a markup if you sell or quote prints.
4. Copy the result as text, or as a link that opens this calculator with the same numbers.

Files are read in your browser and never uploaded. A shared link contains only the numbers.

• Filament: grams × price per kg. Usually the biggest part.
• Electricity: the printer's average power × hours × your price per kWh. Desktop printers use roughly 80 to 150 W while printing (more with a hot bed for ABS or ASA, less for PLA), so it's often only a few cents an hour.
• Machine wear: the printer's price spread over the hours it will run, which also roughly covers nozzles, belts and plates. A 600 printer over 3,000 hours is 0.20 an hour.
• Failed prints: a share of prints go wrong and are printed again. 5 to 10% is a fair guess.
• Extras and markup: magnets, inserts, paint and packaging, then your profit if you sell.

A model doesn't say how it will be printed, so the weight is estimated: a 0.8 mm shell all round (about two walls, and top and bottom layers) plus the infill you choose inside. The time is rougher still, from the volume and an average printing speed. For a quote, slice the model and drop the G-code instead: its filament and time come from your slicer. The G-code viewer shows the same numbers per layer.

The calculator gives the cost of making a print. Your price also has to cover your time (setting up, removing supports, packing) and any platform fees, which differ a lot between sellers, so they're left to the markup and extras.